Monday, September 20, 2010

Though much is taken, much abides...

Had a meeting at the beach this morning and spent the rest of the day "working at home," or another euphemism for goofing off at the beach. The new lawn man came to give me an estimate--the old guy has to go, blew his last chance--and then the AC went out. Eventually the pump man showed up and fixed it, but it was nip and tuck. Poor Jane was sweltering most of the day! (as was Winnie) Lucky it wasn't the height of summer.

The waves...wow. Forecast at 8 to 9 feet, but it didn't look that big. Lots of surfers out, some really good ones. Not the usual rummies we get with the 2 foot swells. I don't have a surfboard anymore and I'm not sure I would have challenged the big breakers--though they weren't too rough, more rolling--I did decide you only go around once (well, that we remember anyway), so I dashed out about 6:30 to go body surfing with my relatively new Body Glove board (I bought it for Pierce over the summer, and it had never been out of the wrapper). I don't know if I was even on the right side of the thing, but, as I lay on it panting and cramping after about 20 minutes of getting beat to death by whitewater, I said "Lord, please let me have just one good ride." And I dropped right down the next big-ish one and into the best 30 second wave I've had in 40 years. Still can't hold a candle to snowboarding, but it was all I had at the time.

Jane and Winnie were watching from the beach, and the ambiance and situation made me think (for a fleeting instant) I was 20 again; my body disagreed, but I ignored it. Apparently Winnie started barking after me right as I went in and didn't stop til I came back. Who knows what she was on about, but what a sweetheart she is.

I hope the ocean is calmer tomorrow. I have to get some work done.

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